de Santiago / French Way : 18. Calzadilla de la Cueza - Sahagún
out of the village of Calzadilla de la Cueza down
the unusually named Calle Mayor, taking a right
at the main road and following the gravel path to
the left. Here there is a map giving you different
routes if you were not planning to stay at Ledigos,
but as Ledigos is our last stop on this stage we
will ignore the map.
2 kilometres from Calzadilla de la Cueza you will
pass the remains of the once hugely important 11th
century pilgrim hospital of Santa Maria de las
is talk of restoring the building and turning it
into a refugio, let’s hope this is true as it would
be a great shame to lose such an important building.
The old monastery also marks the half way point
of the Spanish section of the Camino.
the monastery we continue down the track before
a slight upward climb and then a descent into Ledigos.
Albergue El Palomar is the only place to stay the
night but it does have laundry and cooking facilities.
Close by is bar if you fancy a drink and a small
shop for provisions. The local parish church, la
Iglesia de Santiago Apostol is the only church
on the whole Camino which has Santiago in all three
of his anifestations, the apostle, Santiago Matamoros
(the moor slayer) and Santiago Peregrino (thepilgrim).
Unfortunately, it is not easy to get in the church
as more often than not it is locked.
out of Lédigos the same way you came in and
take a left fork along a track through some fields.
300 metres take a right and after 500 metres take
a left. Continue down the road for about 1.5 kilometres
until you come to the village of Terradillos
de los Templarios.
de los Templarios gets part of its name from
the fact that it once belonged to the Order of the
Knights Templar who built a pilgrim hostal in the
12th century called San Juan unfortunately, only
the occasional stone remains to mark its existence.
The 18th century Iglesia de San Pedro is unusual
in that it is made from brick. This is because when
it was built there was a lack of local stone. Inside
there is an interesting
13th century crucifix.
are 2 albergues in Terradillos de los Templarios.
The first, Los Templarios, you will have passed
on the main
road as you entered the village. The other is called
Albergue Jacques de Molay, named in remembrance
of the last Grand Master of the Knights Templar
who was burnt at the stake in front of Notre Dame
Cathedral in Paris
by King Philip IV of France.
the village take a track on your left towards a
minor road then go right through some fields. The
path runs parallel to the main road and crosses
the stream known hereabouts as the Arroyo de Templarios.
about 3 kilometres you reach the small village of
Moratinos with its underground bodegas. There
is a fountain next to the Iglesia Parroquial Santo
Tomás de Aquino and a rest area here but little
down the main street through Moratinos past the
church until after approximately 2.5 kilometres
you come to the village of San Nicolás del Real
Nicolás del Real Camino, like Terradillos de los
Templarios, is a village associated with the Knights
Templar. Here you will find another brick built
church, the Iglesia de San Nicolas de Bari with
its ornate Baroque altar. The Albergue Laganares
is the only accommodation here but it does offer
a Pilgrim menu and for those wanting to catch up
on emails, it has internet access.
long after you have left the village you come across
a sign that says 'Senda de Peregrinos', a pilgrim
path that runs parallel to the main road. An alternative
path runs through some fields following the river.
Whichever route you take after about 1.5 kilometres
you will be leaving the province of Palencia and
entering the province of León.
routes also meet at the 12th century Ermita de
La Virgen del Puente located next to a Roman
bridge over the Rio Valderaduey. The Ermita de la
Virgen del Puente had originally been a pilgrim
hospice and the path we will be following into Sahagún
is known as the Camino Frances de la Virgen (the
French Camino of the Virgin).
a kilometre along the path there will be an underpass
under the main road, go through it and in the distance
you will see a large white grain silo, aim for this.
Once you have reached the grain silo take a left
passing the railway station and the bull ring and
take a bridge over the railway tracks into Sahagún.
derives its name from the saint San Facundo
who was martyred here and the 9th century monastery,
Abadia de San Benito el Real de Sahagún, built in
his honour by King Alfonso III de Asturias, el Magno.
The monastery grew in importance during the reign
of Alfonso VI de Castilla who showered the town
with prestige and money for the help he received
from the monastery during the war with his brother
Sancho III. During the Middle Ages the monastery
became the most powerful Benedictine monastery in
Spain controlling at least 100 other monasteries
from Tierra de Campos to Liébana in the heart of
the Picos de Europa and down to Segovia, near Madrid.
Benedictine monastery was disbanded in the 19th
century and most of the buildings were destroyed
during two major fires that destroyed much of the
town of Sahagún. Only the 17th century Arco de
San Benito, the 12th century Capilla de San
Mancio and the 19th century Torre del Reloj remain
of this once powerful monastery. A number of the
Castilian royal family were buried in the monastery
including Alfonso VI of Castilla and his 5 wives.
After the fire that destroyed the monastery in 1810
their remains were moved and eventually re-interred
in 1835 in the 16th century Monasterio de las Madres
Benedictinas de Santa Cruz.
churches worth seeing are the 13th century Iglesia
de San Lorenzo and the 12th century Iglesia
de San Tirso. Both have been built in the Mudéjar
style. They are very similar in look but the Iglesia
de San Lorenzo is built entirely out of brick, and
the Iglesia de San Tirso is part built in stone
with the upper parts constructed out of brick.
can find accommodation in either one of 3 albergues
along with at least 4 hostals. There is also a campsite,
Pedro Ponce, on the way out of town. Several restaurants
in the town offer a pilgrim menu and there are all
the necessary amenities you would expect with a
town of this size.
à CF description
at wanadoo.fr - 10/01/2014